The back of this Simplicity 1418 pattern caught my attention straight away. Even at my size I think I can pull this off. To be sure, I will make the version with a high modesty panel underneath the lattice work. Wouldn’t want back fat showing now would I? Though this is a modern pattern I think the dress style is reminiscent of the 1950’s and will fit within my new wardrobe nicely.
For the first time I decided to make a muslin. All the pro sewist divas make them and after all one of my goals is to grow at my craft. Yesterday I cut out the bodice. Since the skirt is simply a rectangle with a cute pleat I’ll forgo making a test piece for it. This muslin is a thrifted bed sheet.
Upon initial try-on the bodice seems a little tight at the waist. The back details of this dress include a modesty panel and lattice-work. I had the panel piece in place, but thought I didn’t have to worry about the lattice. That being said, those pieces show exactly where to place the sides of the back. I need to quit being lazy and add the lattice mock-up piece so I can get a better idea of fit. That is, after all, the purpose of the muslin. I really need to stop trying to cut corners if I am going to take my sewing to the next level, sigh. That being said, I am wondering if I am not also going to have to at least cut out and mock up the top portion of the skirt. I want this dress to fit properly in the waist area and my figure is not in proportion as per the pattern envelope. I will be grading between sizes.
After adding the sleeves to muslin and subsequent try on, the waist is definitely too small and I need more space in the bust area. Pattern alterations from what I can tell include:
- Bust = + 1″
- Waist = +5″
- Hips = + 2″
- Bodice length = +1″
- Modesty panel = +1″ height
- Hem = +2″
From where I stand this is a lot of altering. Basically my measurements were not on the pattern envelope at all!
Fabric: eBay seller – institchestn – $9.00
Muslin: $1.00, thrifted bed sheet
Bias tape: Under $2.00/pack x 2
Want to see last months Make A Garment A Month project? June MAGAM project.
This is my first time applying a full bust adjustment. Wasn’t as scary as I thought. Many thanks to Mary of Idle Fancy and Elisalex for sharing their expertise. I did not see a big difference in the two tutorials with exception to color coding the stitching lines. As a visual learner that was very helpful.
This dress will be nice to wear to our Circuit Assembly in October. Stay tuned as this cute little number comes together.